Below is a short observational piece inspired
during a visit to Wales .
Calvin
A
Path to Nowhere
Llanberis,
a village buried amidst the hills of Snowdonia, happened to be my starting-point
for a hike up Mount
Snowdon . I looked forward to the prospect. The sun was at its brightest, and there was
not a wisp of haze. My route began
between the Llanberis Lake Railway’s boarding point and the Padarn Country
Park . Having gathered my kit together, I set off towards
Llanberis Lake .
There were in fact three paths: a
nature trail and the Snowdon walkway were sign-posted,
but the third was not marked. My
curiosity ignited immediately. I
suspected the third route to be short, uninteresting, and not worthy of signage. There was no harm investigating, just to be
certain.
The path led between a steep hill
and a copse. Beyond the trees, the
mystery began to unravel. A pool lay here,
hemmed in on the far side by a rocky bluff.
The water’s colour was the most striking iridescent blue, metallic,
shimmering, fantastically bright. Its
beauty held me motionless for some time, but I realised such vibrancy had to be
unnatural. Something had caused it, and
I suspected industrial pollution. There
was something else about the water, or rather, the air over it. For some reason, there appeared to be a hazy
effect above the surface, as though the scene were being viewed through a
camera’s soft-focus filter. I shifted my
position, but the haze remained, adding a romantic, almost magical edge to the
beauty spot.
I glimpsed something hanging through
the trees. It was a small red railway
truck suspended from a rusting jib.
These objects seemed ludicrously out of place, but it was now obvious
there had been workings of some kind here, and this dazzling lakelet served as the
spoil pond.
The path curved to reveal another
piece in an intriguing jigsaw. Up the
hillside, a cutting had been made, and a narrow-gauged railway ascended out of
sight. Everything about this place
seemed strange. The cutting was of some
antiquity. The rails, distorted and encrusted
with flaking rust rime, had long been redundant, and yet the cutting itself
remained free of grass or plants — odd because both banks were replete with
growth, and the bare soil did not look tended or much trodden. Not far off, flagstone steps ascended. Some were loose, and the entire stairway was
roughly hewn and without the security of a handrail — a strange omission given
the ever-increasing tyranny of the health-and-safety paramilitaries’ carping
about bumper car dangers, the perils of snowballing and conkers, or any
covering of winter ice no matter how millimetric in thickness. The flight climbed a hundred feet or so and
emerged onto a flat terrace thirty yards deep, carved out of the hillside. This was journey’s end. All about lay irregular pieces of blue-grey
slate like shed dragon scales. The
thinner fragments crunched underfoot; larger pieces sat half buried in the
mess. It was a scene of hasty
abandonment. Near the cutting stood
shoulder-high stacks of cut slate. Each
slab was five feet long, two wide, and four inches thick. At the back of the terrace, a ten-foot strip
of bare slate marred the hillside as a dark scar. Its face caught the sun in places as I moved,
making the rock appear wet and as though cut just the day before. A line of stout slate dwellings overviewed
the precipice. They were small,
rectangular, squat, flat-roofed, and functional, utterly functional in fact. They were so bereft of aesthetics, their ugliness
seemed a begrudging concession, a reluctant admission of the weather’s
privations.
I took out my Pentax and fired off a
few shots of the hovels, but it was only after having snapped several
picturesque landscapes from the terrace’s edge that I realised I was missing
the point. I was basking in the heat and
luxuriating in the tranquillity, the solitude, and the sheer beauty of the
hills. Snowdon ’s
great mass, serene and blued by distance, dominated the skyline. Nearer mountains, bedecked in an olive-green
drab of fir and larch trees, tumbled down to the long, thin shoreline of Llanberis Lake , which stretched to the right
almost out of sight. Closer still, great
outcrops of grey rock erupted from the earth, their rugged detail emphasised by
early sunlight. Shining through it all as
a backlit sapphire was the gleaming quarry pool.
How different the outlook, though, for those wretched souls
who had lived in and worked this place: a captive community toiling amidst the
din, filth, and perils of a working quarry.
Each breath, laced with razor-edged slate dust, induced emphysema,
increased misery, and hastened death.
Life was Saturday night’s binge and the dutiful trudge to Sunday
chapel. Such rugged remoteness would add
to the workers’ pains, their scenic appreciation eroded by drudgery, hunger, ill
health, and bone-deep weariness. Most
desperate of all was, for those bygone workers, week followed week, month after
month, each a milestone on a path, but where did it lead? — not to an escape
from poverty, toil, or sickness. Perhaps
the path led to salvation, or perhaps it was a path to nowhere.
I put my SLR
away, shucked my bag onto my shoulders, and headed off, more thoughtful than when
I had arrived.
© (2014) Calvin Hedley all rights reserved